Austrian wine

Austria is most famous for the white grape variety, Grüner Veltliner. This unique grape variety produces refreshing yet richly textured whites with green apple and lemon flavours, with tell-tale white pepper notes. Some examples even give the impression of a slight fizz on the tongue.

Grüner Veltliner, or ‘GrüVe’ as its sometimes known, has risen in popularity recently thanks to the enthusiasm of sommeliers and wine critics – who see it as a great option for anyone looking for alternatives to the big-name white grapes, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The best examples come from the eastern part of Austria – including the regions of Kremstal, Kamptal, and Wachau. Jancis Robinson singles out the Kremstal region, where she says the clay and limestone soils “imbue the finest Veltliners with a density all of their own”.

Austria is best known for its signature white, Grüner Veltliner – but it’s worth looking out for other varieties too. It’s a particularly good source of lighter but good quality reds – a style very much in demand right now.

• Grüner Veltliner – Austria’s flagship white is very food friendly, and a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc if you’re looking for a change. The wines tend to be crisp and fresh yet with surprising richness. Typical flavours include green apple and lemon zest, with white pepper notes and a hint of sherbet on the finish. 
• Riesling – like nearby Germany, Austria produces some world-class Rieslings. Some of the best come from the Wachau region, where steep vineyards and stony soils help to produce wines with excellent freshness and minerality. Austria’s dry Rieslings display typical flavours of apricot and tropical fruit, always with that underlying lime acidity that makes them so good with food.
• Blauer Zweigelt – also known simply as Zweigelt, this lighter red makes a great alternative to Pinot Noir. It takes its name from Dr Fritz Zweigelt, who created it by crossing two other native varieties, Saint-Laurent and Blaufrankisch. Like Pinot Noir, Zweigelt loves cooler climates and produces reds that are lighter in colour and body, but with intense red berry flavours. Wine writer and TV presenter Oz Clarke describes them as “cherry fruited wines with an attractive pepper tingle.”

Austria has gone through a revolution in quality in the last few decades and is now seen by many as a treasure trove for quality wines.

A mountainous country in central Europe, Austria benefits from steeply sloping vineyards and a moderate continental climate that is perfect for producing light, elegant reds, and crisp aromatic whites. The most famous are the whites made from the Grüner Veltliner grape, and the light Burgundy-style reds made from local star Blauer Zweigelt.

Austria also benefits from a long winemaking history, with many small family cellars having wine traditions going back centuries. In fact, the only reason we don’t see more Austrian wine in the UK is that the Austrians like to keep most of it for themselves!

Though most famous for its flagship white, Grüner Veltliner, Austria also produces fine reds. These are gaining increasing popularity in the UK, due to their light elegant style – very much in vogue right now. The most famous examples are:

• Blauer Zweigelt (aka Zweigelt) – a light red that makes a great alternative to Pinot Noir. The climate in Austria is just slightly warmer than in Germany – where Spätburgunder (aka Pinot Noir) is the main red grape variety. As a result, Zweigelt, which was bred especially to suit Austria’s climate, produces wines similar in character to Pinot Noir, but a little riper, with juicy cherry fruit.        
• Blaufränkisch – unique to central Europe, this dark-skinned grape produces more robust reds than Blauer Zweigelt. Blaufränkisch wines are very popular in Austria but less frequently seen in the UK. Similar in style to a Beaujolais, they tend to have a mix of red and black fruit flavours and a soft, supple texture.

Austria’s wines – both red and white – are nothing if not food friendly. Here are some food suggestions for the best-known Austrian wine styles:

• Grüner Veltliner – with its rich texture and racy freshness, GrüVe makes a perfect match for sauced fish dishes. It’s also very good with white meats – especially roast pork with apple sauce.   
• Riesling – with their tropical fruit flavours and refreshing lime zip, Rieslings are delicious enjoyed solo, and make a great match for smoked salmon or trout, or shellfish dishes such as prawn cocktail or spicy crab cakes. Their fresh acidity also works well with fatty white meats – try an Austrian Riesling with slow roasted crisp pork belly for a real treat!
• Blauer Zweigelt – a light fresh style or red, Blauer Zweigelt is a great match for white meats such as roast chicken – and will make a fabulous accompaniment to your Christmas turkey. But of course, Zweigelt isn’t just for Christmas. Try with hearty fish dishes such as salmon pasta or fatty meats such as roast lamb.
• Blaufränkisch – a richer style of red, Blaufränkisch is perfect for summer barbecues, or, at other times of year, sauced meat dishes such as spaghetti Bolognese. If you want to go with something more authentically Austrian, pair with smoked sausages.